In a shop, it's polite to wait until someone finishes a difficult glue up or stops playing with the sharp spinny thing before you interrupt. So I was grateful that the weather showed the same good manners.
I had just finished gluing up the port side (I refer to port and starboard as if I were sitting upside down in the boat, since it is currently upside down. This seems more correct. For absolute Clarity the port side is the side facing out into the garden in the photos) anyhow, as I was saying, I had just glued up the Sheer Clamp, all held in place with waxed deck screws and large washers. I was crouched in the gap between the bushes and the boat, just about to start drilling the holes for the starboard side when I felt a few drops of rain, then a few more, and like Cockroaches and Politicians, where there are one or two, there are always many many more.
Tarpaulin up, tools away and back inside for a hot shower. All the while thanking the polite rain for not disturbing me halfway through the port side, and for not letting me get well started on the starboard.
Incidentally, one very handy tool for boat back garden building is a Garden Kneeling Pad. Basically a piece of durable foam with a built in handle that's just right for kneeling on. Kneel in the cold wet mud, or hard concrete for a while and trimming those last two notches is a whole lot less fun. Get one for feck all + postage on ebay.
Friday, February 27, 2009
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Looks like a Boat
Here you can see it's starting to come together. Both of the sheer clamps are fully fitted, Next is the glue up. The eagle eyed amongst you will notice that the frame for the cover is inside the chine between the first and second frames (from the pointy end). This will require some "rework" on my canopy frame.
As I mentioned before, twisting oak requires a little bit of leverage. I've swapped in the shorter clamps as the wood has already taken on a fair twist from when I steamed it. This helps keep it all in place until I can get the Screws and Glue in place.
And the pointy bit. The tape is to stop water getting in before I glue it up. 2 inch screws and big washers hold it all in place. A nice fit if I do say so myself.
Monday, February 16, 2009
A little more progress....
The sheer strake notches for the "other" side of the boat are finally cut. The "other" side is of course the side beside the wall. And the Bushes. I think in hindsight that another 6 inches away from the wall would have made a lot of difference. 8-(
I can see the problem when I get to glassing and painting. It will require some "gentle" trimming of the bushes. My wife may not be happy.
It appears that the best way to actually attach the strake is to glue and screw it on at the front first, and then bend it into position. This way leverage works in your favour. In the absence of any friends who would be prepared to simply stand still, holding the end of a 16 foot "stick" for half an hour or so, I ended up just tying it off at the centre and the far end. This, after a little bit of adjusting (ok, a lot of adjusting) held the near end in place for me to drill and screw. I wish I had pictures, but by the time I was finished, It was dark, and I was tired and there was kids (and wives) to be fed.
Fuller bits rock, but they are fragile. Fortunately the one that snapped off had gone in far enough to protrude out the far side, making removing the broken bit a whole lot easier. You can't really leave the broken bit in. Steel and Oak are poor bedfellows. Acid and all that. It was (of course) my fault that it snapped, trying to squeeze the drill in where it just won't fit means it puts a whole lot of bending force on the drill bit. That only ever ends one way.
Next up is the glue up. Then the fairing, then I start with the skin....
I can see the problem when I get to glassing and painting. It will require some "gentle" trimming of the bushes. My wife may not be happy.
It appears that the best way to actually attach the strake is to glue and screw it on at the front first, and then bend it into position. This way leverage works in your favour. In the absence of any friends who would be prepared to simply stand still, holding the end of a 16 foot "stick" for half an hour or so, I ended up just tying it off at the centre and the far end. This, after a little bit of adjusting (ok, a lot of adjusting) held the near end in place for me to drill and screw. I wish I had pictures, but by the time I was finished, It was dark, and I was tired and there was kids (and wives) to be fed.
Fuller bits rock, but they are fragile. Fortunately the one that snapped off had gone in far enough to protrude out the far side, making removing the broken bit a whole lot easier. You can't really leave the broken bit in. Steel and Oak are poor bedfellows. Acid and all that. It was (of course) my fault that it snapped, trying to squeeze the drill in where it just won't fit means it puts a whole lot of bending force on the drill bit. That only ever ends one way.
Next up is the glue up. Then the fairing, then I start with the skin....
Sunday, February 01, 2009
Sheer Strake Notches
Trying to fit the sheer strake (blue) when the frame us upside down, and it's colder than a Snowman's toes can be fun. Working upside down is just hard work. A simple template (in red) helps get things lined up. This is just cut from a scrap of wood, ply is fine. And it quickly allows you to see how much you need to increase your notch by to have the outside corner of the sheer strake at the correct height.
If you think my diagram is a bit rough, you should see the joint. But it will be hidden away, epoxy fills all known gaps.... 8-)
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