A little aside, wax melts just fine in the microwave, but it goes on really thick to COLD screws. I think that next time I will heat the screws in boiling water too. Then they won't cool down the wax so much and come out with 1/8" coatings.
I have replaced the deck screws with Bronze screws. An Old Brace that belonged to my grandfather has provided excellent service in setting the screws, as it gives a nice fine control rather than just stripping the head out as power tools can. Bronze is soooo soft.
I have glued and screwed the second chine. Next on my list is cutting the sheer clamps. Since I could not get 16' oak, I will have to scarf these in the aft section where there's not too much curvature.
Fitting these will be "fun" as firstly I'll be working UP from ground level to fit the notches, and secondly the starboard chine (if the boat were right way up) is quite near the wall and the shrubs.
I am not really sure how my wife is going to react when I propose cutting back (down?) those shrubs for glassing and painting operation. 8-(
I have enjoyed reading about your progress. I built a Glen-L 14 about eight years ago, and your blog echoes my own experience. Only I had a shop in which to build.
ReplyDeleteWith respect to waxing the screws: I found that epoxy doesn't hold screws that well. Even unwaxed screws will usually come out. However, I did use beeswax just in case. I just rubbed the cold block of wax against the screw threads until they were packed pretty well with wax "crumbs". The friction of driving the screw was enough to melt the wax providing lubrication (helps drive those long ones. even the bronze ones won't break) and it provided a releasing agent so they don't bond to the epoxy. It was quicker than melting the wax.
Maybe that will help. Good luck and keep posting. I'm enjoying the vicarious experience.
Brian